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Rock Island Trek A Natural Feast
Geologically, botanically and historically, Rock Island State
Park stands out as one of the most awesome of all the gems in the
"Door County Jewelry Store" of preserved natural
wonders. Fortunately this unique park is improving from year to
year through help from the active and supportive group,
"Friends of Rock Island." Equally important has been
the appointment of the new park manager, Kirby Foss, a native of
Washington Island.
It was in June of 1968 that Emma Toft and I took a ferry to
Washington Island, drove to Jackson Harbor and, from there, rode
the people ferry, Karfi, to Rock Island. The main event of our
outing was the hike to see the Potawatomi Lighthouse situated
high on the bluff at the northwest corner of the island.
Miss Emma and her people had come to know a number of Door
County lighthouse keepers and their families through the years,
dating back to the first keeper of the Rangelights at Baileys
Harbor in 1870. Naturally this visit was quite nostalgic for
her.
We were about midway along the trail to the lighthouse when
suddenly Emma, with her keen vision, discovered a very young fawn
lying amid the wild sarsaparilla plants within two or three feet
from were we stood. What a perfect site this proved to be for
Emma to recount one of her favorite fawn experiences.
It so happened that in June of 1959 Bill Carrick, Door
County’s game warden at the time, was alerted to a young fawn
whose mother had been accidentally killed by slipping and falling
over one of the precipitous cliffs on Rock Island. The fawn was
delivered to Miss Emma for caring. She had proven her skill
through the years of caring for orphaned fawns and this little
animal, as you might expect, was nicknamed "Rocky."
Within a week or so after Emma began caring for little Rocky,
the famous nature writer, Edwin Way Teale and his wife, Nellie,
visited Emma and explored Toft Point during the course of his
writing the book, Journey Into Summer, published in 1960.
Teale later told Miss Emma that his photo of Rocky, the Rock
Island fawn, included in the book, was requested by more book
reviewers than any other of the many photos contained in the
book.
Yesterday, July 23, our hike to see the Potawatomi Lighthouse
with our friends, Hermi and Dale Krueger of Appleton, left us
gasping at the incredible beauty and wonders of the park. The
lantern room on this oldest of all lighthouses on Lake
Michigan, built in 1836, had already been removed when I first
visited Rock Island in the mid 1960’s. Today, thanks to the
expert craftsmanship of Tony Hodges and other members of the
Rock Island Friend’s group, the lantern room has been
reconstructed and completed. What a thing of beauty it is, and
the view of the islands to the north from that high vantage
point is quite awesome.
What is so intriguing is the precipitous, triple-notched cliff
at Potawatomi Point that rises over 150 feet above the waters of
Green Bay. An excellent account of the geology of this 912-acre
island, around one and one-quarter square miles, was written by
Prof. Robert R. Shrock of the Massachusetts Institute of
Technology, assisted by J.H.R. Hovard, in 1934. This
richly-illustrated story, "Geology of Washington Island and
Its Neighbors, Door County, Wisconsin," was published in
1940 in the Transactions of the Wisconsin Academy of Science,
Arts and letters, v. 32, p. 199-227.
We climbed down the well-constructed series of wooden steps to
the beach directly below the lighthouse where we ate our picnic
lunch in blissful peace on the rocks. What a wilderness
paradise! Here exist some of the most interesting paper birch
and northern white cedar trees and their wildly adventitious
roots, precariously clinging to the steep cliffs, that I’ve ever
seen. A thick bed of "herb Robert" wildflowers with
their brilliant tiny pink blossoms, one of the wild geraniums,
carpets the very base of the bluff.
Fortified by some fresh sugar snap peas in the pod, peanut
butter and wild blackberry jelly sandwiches and a bottle of
water, we decided to hike the entire Thordarson Loop Trail, about
a five-mile route. This would take us around most of the
perimeter of the island and provide us with interesting
plant-life and spectacular views of the steep wooded bluffs to
enjoy that we hadn’t experienced before.
Charlotte, with her amazing skill of luring songbirds to
within close viewing range, "brought in" American
redstarts, cedar waxwings, an indigo bunting, eastern wood pewee
and black-throated green warbler along the eastern segment of the
trail. A high point of the long hike was enjoying the tall,
beautifully-constructed stone water tower where we also rested
and got a close look at a female indigo bunting.
The great electrical inventor, Chester Thordarson, native of
Iceland who came to own most of Rock Island in 1910, had many
imposing structures built there of dolomite cobble. Surely the
most outstanding building, clearly visible from Washington
Island, is the great Viking Hall Boat House which reflects the
rich Scandinavian background and history of this region.
Memories of your visit to Rock Island State Park will remain
in your heart and mind for a long time. Here’s to one of the most
exquisite gems of Lake Michigan!
This column appeared in the Door County Advocate on 07/28/2000. © Copyright 2000 Roy Lukes. All rights reserved.
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