by Roy Lukes

Wild Fungi Offer Unusual Beauty and Variety


The caps of these honey mushrooms are not fully opened.

Even though this has been a relatively poor mushroom fall, knowing where to search for them has helped Charlotte add eight new species to her fungi database in the computer. Her list of accurately identified species for the county now stands at 515. I must admit that, other than a few giant puffballs and shaggy manes, good edibles have recently been few and far between.

It seems so recently that we were enjoying the fall wildflowers and weeds, then came the occasional mushrooms, and now the falling leaves are producing quite a dense carpet thereby concealing these fascinating and often very colorful plants. Some people look at this wonderfully formed group of life as a third kingdom surrounded by a web of legends dating back hundreds of years.

The popular disinterest and ignorance of so many Americans toward mushrooms is just short of astounding. Perhaps it is best to let it go at that and urge the great majority to confine their mushroom hunting to the shelves of the supermarkets.

Mycena mushrooms
Notice the dark orange edges of the gills of these orange Mycena (my-SEE-na) mushrooms

The minority, however, find unusual beauty and variety in the wild fungi. They come to realize that this large group of plants is extremely important as natural recyclers in nature, is actually included in the food of some wild animals and can become fascinating challenges to learn about, to eat with care and to photograph.

The subject of mushrooms to some folks is purely gastronomic. Many houby hunters (houby, pronounced HOE-bee, which is Czech for mushrooms) I recall as a boy in Kewaunee, including my dad, picked only one kind of mushroom. They called it Vaclavky (VOTS-luv-kee).

This fleshy fungi, named in honor of old King Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia, is actually Armillariella mellea (ar-mil-lare-e-EL-la MEL-le-a), the honey mushroom. Melleus refers to honey, the rich, tan cap-color of these gilled delicacies.

Sites of the vaclavky "finds" were guarded like military secrets. And talk about quantities picked – bushels of them some years! Most were canned for winter use. My very favorite meal of them was in the form of my mom’s mushroom soup – absolutely ambrosial!

Some mushroom hunters look down upon the lowly honey cap, or "stump mushroom," because it is very slimy when cooked. In our opinion this is the quality that makes it so perfectly suited for soup.

If you’re going to eat wild mushrooms there’s no room for lack of knowledge or carelessness. Good old-fashioned common sense is very critical.

It’s so important that you can’t be satisfied with colored pictures in one book. If you’re going to resort to this method for determining the edibility of mushrooms in general, forget it! You might call that "playing mushroom roulette." Better yet, stick to the supermarket variety.

The very best advice you can take to heart, if you are determined to collect and eat some wild mushrooms, is to go into the field with an expert, someone who knows mushrooms extremely well and has collected and eaten them in the past. And by all means, stick to a small number, such as two or three species, that you can flawlessly recognize without a mistake.

Naturally Charlotte, in her serious study of mushrooms, is very interested in the gill attachment to the stem of the mushroom, the overall color and appearance of the cap and stem, the spore color, the entire structure of the mushroom including that which is concealed beneath the leaf litter, and the habitat in which they are growing.

So many mushrooms are associated with very distinct environments. Shaggy manes, extremely edible, usually favor lawns and mowed roadsides. Suillus pictus (su-IL-lus PIK-tuse), known as the painted bolete, is a beautiful mushroom that grows in pine-woods and is considered by some to be choice for eating.

The word "mushroom" very likely stems from the French word "mousseron," referring to moss. Many are found growing not necessarily in the moss but rather in mossy places.

This is one of our favorite aspects of mushroom study – where they grow. And even though we relish wild species of mushrooms, we are quite satisfied to dine on the "store-bought" varieties. See you in the woods!


This column appeared in the Door County Advocate on 11/01/2003.
© Copyright 2003 Roy Lukes. All rights reserved.